Salmon Cakelets

For my niece Anna as she steps into fish world!

This is a riff on a Jamie Oliver recipe. I will start by saying that. There are some changes, however, so do not call out the plagiarism police on me! After all, as Coco Chanel said, “imitation is the highest form of flattery”. The idea came about because we were having a family nibble night for a myriad of celebrations. College graduation, impending birthday, upcoming family reunion for July 4th. There were a lot of tastes involved and we all contributed something in some way. My niece, Anna, is beginning to try seafood after years as a vegetarian. So I thought of a recipe that I had seen on the Jamie Oliver channel and thought I could downsize the cakes (hence cakelets). I gave her a list of ingredients and she loved them all so we decided to make them together. From start to finish. Including tasting for taste. It was great fun. I give you Salmon Cakelets.

For this recipe, I used 2 pounds of Atlantic salmon which I skinned. If you are not comfortable skinning the fish, ask your fish purveyor to do it for you. It is quite easy and the skin makes fabulous cracklings. Different recipe….. Also needed were 2 stalks of lemon grass (use lemon rind or lime rind if you cannot find lemon grass and taste for flavor), about a 1-1/2 inch piece of peeled ginger, a bunch of cilantro, and chili oil. I make my own chili oil so I used that, but included a picture of what you need should you make this. Cooking time is enough time to fry the cakes, but allow about 1/2 hour before cooking for resting in fridge.

First, peel the salmon skin and chop into 1/4 inch pieces. Flatten the lemon grass and remove the outer hard bits. Chop as finely as possible. Do the same with the ginger and the cilantro, using leaves and stalks.

I have combined the lemon grass and ginger in a bowl. I separated out the cilantro because not everyone is a fan so I made half with and half without to please everyone.

Now take 1/2 of the cubed salmon and cut down to almost a paste. You can do this in a food processor, but why take out a piece of equipment when a knife works just as well and is easier to clean! Besides, great stress reliever….. Add the lemon grass/ginger mix as you chop. You will. have this:

Add the remaining salmon chunks to this minced down product and continue to chop all together keeping the bigger chunks bigger than the minced bits but making a somewhat homogenous mix.

Quite frankly, I took this photo and chopped a bit further because Anna thought the cakelets were not holding together. She was right. If you make larger cakes it is a bit easier for the finished product to set. You will notice that there is cilantro in this photo. I split out the with and without prior to taking this pix, but if you are not splitting, just mix it all in when you add the ginger and lemon grass (or grated lemon rind or lime rind). Add salt. I think next time I will use soy sauce for this. It will give a better flavor. At this point, if you are a sushi eater, you can taste for seasoning (as I did which is when I realized it needed more salt). If you rather have it cooked, make a small patty to taste.

For patties (cakelets). Form a 1 1/2-2 inch ball and press to form a chunky pancake like thing. Make all the patties at once and then refrigerate for about 1/2 hour.

The best way to cook is to use a non-stick skillet but one was not available so I used cooking spray. Heat the skillet and then spray. Hot Pan Cold Oil. Good trick to remember to keep things from sticking. Learned that at a Chinese cooking class. (the actual quote is hot wok cold oil…).

When you have prepped your pan, add the cakes and cook. Flip when you see the sides of the cakes turning white. If you have prepped the pan or if you are using a non-stick skillet, this will be quite easy. Cook the other side and then put aside. Remember, the salmon will cook after it is taken off the pan. Don’t overcook or the cakelets will be dry. Top with some of the chili oil, crisp, or spice of your choice. You will have this.

This recipe made 24 cakelets. Needless to say, if you want them larger to put on a salad or into a bun, have at it! BTW, none left. Even the 4 year old took some. But Anna? she love making them, chimed in on what was working in shape and taste, loved the finished flavor and hopefully she will make them on her own.

For everyone else? 🙂

RICE PAPER TREATS

A twist on Spanakopita

I am currently visiting family in Chicago. This visit always turns into a food-a-thon, and that is great fun. While going through the pantry looking for something, I happened upon a sleeve of large rice paper wrappers which had seen better days. We had had a salad the night before and there was some fresh spinach left. I had to do a run to the grocery store and picked up some curly kale for another salad. While putting things away into the fridge, I saw a half block of feta and some unopened dill and realized that there was enough of everything to make filling for spanakopita and figured I would try it with the rice paper bits for Happy Hour nibbles. It worked. Lo and behold, I give you rice paper treats.

The fixings. This made 12 squares.

First, I chopped the spinach and kale really finely. You can probably do the same in a food processor, but I didn’t want to take out another appliance. Get the greens as fine as you can and then squeeze out as much liquid as you can to get a dry mix.

Chop the scallion, garlic, and dill and add to the spinach/kale bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste and mix.

Add the egg and stir all together.

Crumble the feta (use as much as you want, I used about 1/4 block) and add to the entire mix. Stir to combine. If you want to taste, make a small patty and cook to make sure you have all the seasonings ok. A grate or two of nutmeg would go really well with the greens, I forgot to add but you will do better.

Now, set a dinner plate aside and add some water. Take a second dinner plate or a tray and spray or brush with oil. Take a rice paper sheet and place on the water plate for a few seconds. Flip the sheet and let sit for another few seconds. Take out and place on your board. Add a spoonful of the mix to the part of the sheet closest to you like so.

You can see that the paper is damp. That is what you want. The damper it is, the easier it is to roll. Starting at the bottom, fold the paper over the mix, then fold the two sides over and roll and flatten, much like you would do with a burrito. Place on the oil plate. Repeat until you have finished the filling or run out of paper. I forgot to take a foto of the wrapped square, but you will see in the finished product below.

Oil a non stick pan and place the squares over medium heat. They will get crispy and the interior will cook. Flip after a few minutes, that depends on how brown you want the exterior or how many people are hovering over you as you cook. I made 12. As I was taking them out of the pan, they were eaten. I had to move fast to get a finished picture!

I made a quick dip with some yogurt and the scallion tops that were left and that was it!

Why do I love this and why will I make it again? It’s easy. It tastes good. I always have rice paper sheets and you should too, they can be used for so many things, cooked and uncooked! Everyone loves hot crispy things. And it is so much easier than making with phyllo because you do not have to wait 24-48 hours for the phyllo to defrost. You don’t have to keep the rice paper sheets covered while you work. It’s gluten free for your gluten free friends. It took about 15 minutes to put the whole thing together including taking fotos to show you. Did I say it tastes good? I hope you try it. If you do, let me know how it goes!

PROVOLETA/PROVOLONE

It’s a cheese and a dish!

Provoleta is a type of cheese. It is akin to provolone. But since I do not know what the name of the process to cook it is called, I have taken literally license and called the finished cooked process Provoleta as well. And I use provolone for the cheese. Got it? It’s ok, it isn’t going to change the world if you don’t “got it”. Just try it.

I had this once before years ago, and made it and forgot about it until I had it again in Madrid for lunch after a visit to the Prado. We were starving and saw it on a menu in an off the way place and ordered it. It was served in one of those cool ceramic cazuelas which, of course, I went on a mission to get, and found. It is a very simple preparation, but so quick and easy and great for a last minute invite for nibbles and Happy Hour.

I used just two ingredients, cheese and pimento, but more on that in a bit. You can buy the provolone in a chunk at a deli department, you want it to be as thick as your finger. Notice the cute little cazuela. You don’t need one, if you have a small cast iron pan, it works just as well, just be sure to oil it so the cheese does not stick as it melts. The cheese should fit the dish in which you are going to serve and any oven proof vessel will work….

like so…..

Preheat your oven to 400F. Grease your dish and place the cheese in it. If you want, you can sprinkle some dried oregano, or fresh pepper, or a mix of dried spices according to your taste. I used oregano. Pop the dish into the oven and cook for about 20 minutes. The cheese will melt and bubble. Raise the temperature to broil to crisp the top. When browned to your liking, remove and serve on a trivet. The dish will be hot so watch your hands. Here is how my most recent finished product appeared:

Notice the green plastic trivet, it worked really well, but use whatever you like, even folded towels will give a pretty rustic look to the presentation. I topped mine with chopped pimento. You can top with any manner of items such as chopped olives, chopped vinegar peppers, Calabrian chilis (for a heat kick), tomatoes for ideas. Serve with either little toasts as I have here or sturdy crackers, you are going to pull the cheese out of the bowl and eat it on the toast or cracker and you don’t want the cracker to break into the dish or pan. If the cheese starts to harden, just pop it back into the oven for a few minutes, it melts beautifully. Don’t have provolone? Try Mozzarella! Have fun with it and enjoy with a glass of wine!

MANGO TAPAS OF A SORT

Started as an avocado wrap

I had seen a recipe from the celebrated Chef Jose Andres and thought I would give it a whirl as I had an avocado that was waning. Unfortunately, I missed the first sentence of the recipe which stated “start with a ripe but not soft avocado.” I made the avocado into toast and was going to give up when I saw a “ripe but not soft” mango on my counter. While in Barcelona, I had a dessert which combined mango and strawberry and it was delicious. I had both in the house so I began to elaborate. I also had some Jamon Iberico and thought the flavors would pair well. Finally, I had some pickled onions for a counterbalance to the sweetness of the mango and strawberry and the fatty Jamon. And so I give you this Mango Tapas.

Start with a piece of cling wrap and coat it with a neutral oil or spray. This keeps the mango from slipping and easier to roll. Then peel your mango and using the peeler, continue to peel thin strips of the fruit. Layer the slices on the cling wrap as so:

Slice the strawberries as thinly as possible, you can use the peeler for this as well but it is a bit tricky. Layer them atop the mango and then add the Jamon on top. Finish with the pickled onion.

Now, starting from the bottom with the wide end of the cling wrap facing you, roll the package up to look like this.

Other options, you can use thinly sliced shrimp in place of Jamon. You can use regular ham. You can use mortadella. You can use chorizo. You can use prosciutto. (Think prosciutto and melon, same idea). If you do not have pickled onions on hand, here is a very quick easy recipe https://www.thekitchn.com/how-to-make-quickpickled-red-onions-cooking-lessons-from-the-kitchn-193247. You can eliminate them, but you do need something sharp and tart, you can even use some pickle slices but don’t overdo.

Refrigerate until ready to serve. Slice and top with some sesame seeds, or chopped nuts, or a bit of soy sauce. Maybe some hot sauce for tang? It is an easy do, can be made ahead and will go well as a nibble with some fizz or wine!

Enjoy!

BROCCOLI

Not just for steaming.

I was testing a recipe for pork spareribs for a Lunar New Year party that we are having in my building. I found the pork recipe I wanted, but as I was making the ribs for dinner, I needed a side veggie to go with the pork and rice. I had some fresh broccoli in the fridge, so that became my side and the inspiration for this post. The good thing about this prep is that the seasonings can be used for a roasted side or a steamed dish. And the ingredients are probably things you have, but I am including some two items that you may want to keep on hand for future use. Both of these items can be stored in the fridge for a bit, so it may make sense to add them to your everyday larder. Or not, you do you.

To prep the broccoli for either steaming or roasting, break down the florets into smaller pieces and peel the stems and cut them into coins. Here I have two small broccoli crowns; you can see the before and after.

If steaming, just add to your steamer and cook to your liking. If roasting, which I prefer, toss with a bit of neutral oil and add to roasting pan. Don’t crowd pan or your broccoli will not crisp up and I like my broccoli with crunchy edges. I set oven to a pretty high heat, 400-425 for about 15 minutes. After that, toss and keep an eye on the pan, burnt isn’t good. Roast to your preferred taste and remove.

To finish the dish, you are ready to season. Simply, toss with lemon juice and chili flakes, salt and pepper to taste. Or you can bougee the dish with these ingredients, and these make a big and tasty difference.

Notice the use by date on the peppers. Once you get accustomed to using these peppers, you will go through them long before the use by date. The preserved lemons are a pickle by another name and last for a long time as well. See sentence regarding peppers and repeat.

With both of these ingredients, a little goes a long way so taste as you go. The peppers have a bit of a kick and the lemons are salty. A scant 1/2 teaspoon of the peppers will suffice for the amount of broccoli shown if you want just a bit of heat. The lemons are soft, again I use scant 1/2 teaspoon to start and toss with chilis and broccoli and taste for seasoning. That’s it. Either dish can be served hot, at room temp, or chilled for a salad. If taking from fridge, remove about 10 minutes before serving to let the flavors come back to life.

Want another idea on how to use? Crostini. Toast some bread, rub with a clove of garlic, chop the broccoli a bit finer, and top the toast. Drizzle a bit of olive oil to complete the dish. Serve with a glass of red wine. Enjoy!

It’s Back!

After a bit of a hiatus, you know, Covid (blame everything on Covid), life, laziness, the usual, I am restarting my bitty blog about nibbles. Those of you who subscribe may be happy (I hope so), hopefully some new followers may appear. With a New Year and resolutions pushing at me, the time seems right. So without further ado, let’s get started

RED WINE MUSHROOM RAGOUT.

This will be an easy start. I made this mushroom ragout with an excess of what I purchased for my duxelles for Christmas Beef Wellington (another post). Fairly simple, but so delicious, I served it along with chicken cutlets coated with garlic breadcrumbs which were made with leftover bread for the same holiday. You can serve it on toasts, topped with an egg for a Sunday brunch , or toss in pasta. The world is your mushroom!

Back to the mushrooms. I had an assortment. In addition to chopped and shredded mushrooms, I minced a garlic clove and a scallion. You can use shallot or onion, I had some scallions left so I used them before I lost them. A sprig of rosemary or thyme A bit of chicken stock or just water and 1/2 cup red wine whatever you have. I had some Beaujolais and I used that. Salt and pepper to taste.

Heat skillet over medium high and then add some neutral oil along with some butter (you can use any fat, but add a bit of neutral oil like grapeseed or canola to raise the heating point). Toss in the mushrooms taking care not to crowd. If you can see some space between the shrooms, you are ok. Otherwise, they will steam and not brown (thank you Julia Child).

As soon as the mushrooms start to brown (about 5 minutes or so) add the garlic and scallion. Waiting after the cooking process has started will prevent the garlic from burning. Allow the scallion and garlic to soften and flavor the mushrooms. Toss in the chicken stock or water to deglaze and then add the red wine and the rosemary. It should look like this.

Let the red wine cook down until the sauce becomes a purple color and thickens the dish. Salt and pepper to taste and that’s it.

Not the best photo but you can see the purple hue of the finished product. The wine has cooked off and all you have is the flavor.

So there you have it. Nibbles and Bits.2 for 2025.

3 January 2025

PEPPERS PEPPERS PEPPERS

August. The top month for produce. Everything coming into the green markets. All those gorgeous tomatoes, the fruits, eggplants of every shape and size. And peppers. So many shapes. So many sizes. So many colors. So many types. I love roasted peppers. Roasting peppers was the first cooking skill I learned. Put peppers under broiler, turn when blackened, take out of oven, put in paper bag to steam, clean skin, put in jar, eat. From opening the oven door to ingestion, probably an hour of mindless work, but so satisfying. But seriously, how many roasted peppers can you eat?

I saw an article on seriouseats.com about shishito pepper cream. I love shishito peppers but the only way I have eaten them is dry roasted on a cast iron skillet until softened and topped with coarse sea salt. Mind you, that is a really delicious nibble, but again, how many times can you eat them (especially if your other half doesn’t eat them)? This cream thing intrigued me so I gave it a try. Delicious. For eight medium sized peppers you will need a sliced clove of garlic, a sliced shallot, a tablespoon of olive oil, 1/4-1/3 cup of heavy cream, a tablespoon of Parmigiano Reggiano (more if you love cheese), and grated nutmeg. Thinly slice the peppers crosswise. Heat the olive oil over medium flame. Add the peppers along with the garlic and shallot and saute until softened. (A nod to Jacques Pepin, I add a bit of water to the pan at the start when sautéing vegetables. It melts the vegetables before they brown too much and when the water has evaporated, the veggies are softened enough so that they are perfectly cooked. The man is a genius.). When the mixture is done, add the heavy cream and turn the heat up a bit, you want to boil the cream down with the peppers to make a sauce. How thick or thin is a personal choice, I went thicker, will explain why in the next paragraph. When the mixture has reached your desired consistency, take off heat, add cheese and nutmeg. Stir. It can be used right away or refrigerated.

Now I have this thick beautiful and creamy butter like sauce. How to use you ask? Well, I had also bought Nardello peppers (https://blog.gardeningknowhow.com/tbt/jimmy-nardello-italian-peppers/) and had some green shishitos left over so I dry roasted both. I also had ciabatta bread which I grilled rubbed with garlic topped with a light brushing of olive oil. I then buttered the bread with my thickened shishito pepper cream and topped with the roasted and chopped Nardello and Shishito peppers. Can be used as a spread for any sandwich. Think grilled eggplant. Think sliced tomato. Think whatever you like!

There you have it. And it being August, open a bottle of Rose’ and be happy.

Roasted Rapini

It is a beautiful Saturday here in quarantined Brooklyn. Totally Spring. And in a sign that some normalcy is trying to return, my dry cleaner was opened so I was able to ransom garments that I dropped off a month ago, like having a new wardrobe. Our Greenmarket is open on Saturdays as well, so I walked up to see if anything was available. Lo and behold, green things are starting to appear as nature does its thing with or without face masks.

One of the vendors had beautiful bunches of broccoli rabe and for the first time in 6 weeks I had a craving for something that wasn’t a potato chip or a bottle of wine. This has to be the easiest, freshest, and tastiest thing to make on the spur of the moment.

So before you I have presented the ingredients. Rapini (or broccoli rabe), garlic, crushed red pepper. You will also need olive oil and flaky sea salt to taste. Everything is QB (quanta basta, or as much as you need or want). First blanch the rapini in boiling water for about 5 minutes. This will soften the stems. Refresh in ice water and drain. Heat oven to 400 degrees. While oven is heating, slice the garlic as thinly as you can. Cover a rimmed sheet pan with aluminum foil (read easy cleanup) and place the rapini on the pan alternating stems and tops for even cooking. If necessary, use two pans, you don’t want to crowd the pan. Add the olive oil, the shaved garlic, the crushed red pepper, salt to taste, and toss. Roast 10-15 minutes. That is all there is to it. If the stems are still tough, cut them from the tops, and place back into oven covered with some aluminum foil to finish. Add lemon juice if you want, or a splash of red wine vinegar. That’s the healthy part.

When I was growing up, my grandmother would make me a sandwich on our Sunday visits. Kaiser roll, some pork cracklings from the rendered fat back used to fry the meatballs for Sunday gravy, and some broccoli rabe. As I was roasting the rapini, I thought of that dish. I had some bacon in the fridge which I chopped down into small pieces and fried. Dipped a Martin’s potato roll into some of the bacon fat, added a few pieces of crispy bacon, a few slices of shaved pecorino cheese, some of the garlic slices from the rapini and toasted my grandmother. Not so healthy, but oh so delicious.

Other things you can do: chop it, add some of the cooking oil and bacon and toss with pasta; top with fried egg; serve at room temperature as a side or salad adding some lemon zest; chop and add to omelettes.

So grab your mask, go for a walk, enjoy the day, look for the rapini, and be grateful for another spring.

Braised Radishes

This is a riff on that beautiful appetizer seen so often in the South of France. If you have ever been, you will know that radishes are served with fresh butter and flaky salt (and a bottle or two of Rose’).

I was looking for a different side vegetable for my Easter dinner, and I had some radishes in the fridge which were a bit tired looking, so I decided to reinvent that appetizer to serve as a vegetable for my meal. 4 ingredients including the water and the salt. The other two are radishes and butter. The whole process start to finish takes 10 minutes max. The result is a colorful and sweet vegetable that will surprise even the pickiest of eaters (read my husband).

Start with clean, clean, clean radishes. They are always very dirty when you purchase them, rinse them in several changes of cold water to remove the grit. Remove the greens and set aside. I like to leave the little squiggle things at the end and a bit of the green stem, but you can remove as you like. Try to keep them all the same size, if need be leave some whole and some sliced. It will make the cooking more even. Place your radishes in a sauce pan that has a lid, add butter (depending on how many radishes and how much you like butter, this is a very free flowing recipe) and a 2-3 tablespoons of water. Cover and bring to simmer over medium heat. When the radishes are softened so that a knife or cake tester goes through with some resistance, remove the cover and raise the heat to boil. The water will boil away and leave only the melted butter which will cause the radishes to brown. When finished, remove from pan, sprinkle with flaky sea salt and serve. That’s it. If you really want to go over the top, and you happen to have it on hand, you can replace the butter with either chicken or bacon fat, or my personal favorite, duck fat which I always have in the fridge because, well you never know when you want duck fat potatoes. Photo start to finish below.

Now about the greens. They can be served with a simple red red wine vinaigrette as a green along with the radishes and your meal. Or you can puree them with some walnuts and olive oil, a bit of red pepper flakes and a clove of garlic and make a sauce. Use them, they are tasty, peppery and a bit like arugula.

One more thing, don’t forget the Rose’.

Mushroom Moustaches.

I saw an episode of Simply Ming a bit back and while the entree was a fish or lamb or something else delicious, the thing that caught my eye was the crispy shitake mushrooms he made as a garnish.

So because I always have mushrooms in the fridge, and because yesterday was rainy and cloudy, I had binged Season 2 of Victoria, and I was beginning to talk to myself alternating between a cockney accent and a German accent, I decided it was time to try these little beauties.

**don’t they look like little moustaches?**?

Wipe the mushrooms clean with damp cloth or paper towel. Remove the stems. If you have OCD, you can bag and place in freezer to use for stock at some point. Yes, I do that. Slice them as shown above. In a skillet, add about 1/4 cup whatever oil you have. I use Grapeseed or Safflower because of the high heat content. You are going to want a high heat to make them crispy.

Heat your oil until shimmering or use the base of a wooden chopstick or toothpick to see if bubbles are accumulating around the bottom of the stick. When the appear, you oil is hot enough. Add the mushrooms a few at a time, and let them brown. They will. the whole process takes about 4 minutes. Pull them out from the oil place on a rack to drain. Sprinkle with salt and pepper or whatever other spice you would like.

They can be served with drinks, as a side, as a garnish, and maybe even dipped in chocolate, although I save that possibility for the pastry chefs out there.

Mushroom moustaches! No razors needed. 🙂